How to Get Rid of Rats

Updated 2026-06-07

Rats are smarter and warier than mice — which is exactly why DIY rat control fails so often. The approach that works: find the rat’s runways, get sturdy snap traps that they’re used to before you set them, seal the (surprisingly large) gaps they squeeze through, and clean up safely, because rats carry serious diseases. A few rats is doable yourself; a colony in the walls or burrows in the yard usually needs a pro.

1. Rats or mice — and which rat?

Rat droppings are large (raisin-sized) versus a mouse’s rice-grain droppings, and rats leave gnaw marks, greasy rub-marks along walls, and sometimes burrows. Norway rats nest low (basements, crawl spaces, yard burrows); roof rats nest high (attics, rafters, along utility lines).

Knowing which one tells you where to focus: ground level for Norway rats, overhead and the roofline for roof rats.

2. Set heavy-duty snap traps the right way

Snap traps are still the most reliable and humane (quick) DIY option for rats. But rats are neophobic — wary of new objects — so place the traps baited but UNSET for two or three days first, let the rats feed freely and get comfortable, then set them. That single step dramatically raises your catch rate.

Place them perpendicular to walls along the runways (near droppings and rub-marks), use plenty, and bait with peanut butter or a small piece of bacon. Avoid glue boards for rats — they’re inhumane and rats often drag free.

3. Seal the entry points

A rat fits through a hole the size of a quarter (about half an inch). Walk the exterior and seal gaps around pipes, vents, the foundation and — for roof rats — the roofline and eaves, using steel wool packed in and sealed over with caulk or concrete (rats chew through foam or steel wool alone, but not the combination).

4. Cut off food and water

Rats need water daily, so fix drips and don’t leave pet water out overnight. Secure trash, store pet food in metal containers, and clean up fallen fruit and spilled bird seed in the yard — remove the buffet and traps work far faster.

5. Clean up safely

Rat droppings and urine can carry diseases (leptospirosis, hantavirus and others). Don’t sweep or vacuum dry — ventilate, soak droppings and nests with disinfectant or bleach solution, then wipe up with gloves and bag the waste.

6. Skip what doesn’t work — and be careful with poison

Ultrasonic “repeller” plug-ins have no good evidence behind them. And think twice about loose rat poison (rodenticide): it risks secondary poisoning of pets, kids and wildlife (owls, cats) that eat a poisoned rat. If you use bait, use tamper-resistant stations only — but trapping plus sealing is safer and usually enough.

When to call a pro

Burrows in the yard, rats inside walls or the attic, a roof-rat colony, or no progress after a couple of weeks all point to a job for a professional — they handle exclusion and safe baiting at a scale DIY can’t match. Getting a free quote from a licensed local pro is worth it before a rat problem grows.

Dealing with a bigger pest problem than fruit flies? Get free quotes from licensed local pest pros — no obligation.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get rid of rats?

Because rats are wary, plan on a few days of pre-baiting before traps start catching, then one to two weeks to clear a small infestation — provided you’ve sealed entry points so new rats can’t replace them.

Do ultrasonic rat repellers work?

There’s no reliable evidence they do; rats habituate to the sound quickly. Trapping plus sealing entry points is what actually works.

Snap traps or rat poison?

Snap traps are safer and let you confirm the catch. Poison risks secondary poisoning of pets and wildlife and leaves rats to die (and smell) inside walls. If you must bait, use tamper-resistant stations only.

Can I get rid of rats myself or should I call a pro?

A few rats with clear entry points is a reasonable DIY job. Burrows, rats in walls/attics, or a recurring problem are best handled by a pro who can seal and bait at scale.