How to Get Rid of Mice

Updated 2026-06-07

A few mice is a DIY job; a heavy or recurring infestation usually isn’t. The reliable approach is simple: set snap traps where mice actually travel, seal the gaps they’re getting in through, and clean up safely — droppings can carry disease. Skip the gadgets that don’t work (more on those below) and you can usually clear a small mouse problem in a week or two.

1. Mice or rats?

Mouse droppings are small (rice-grain size); rat droppings are much larger. Mice are curious and will investigate new traps quickly; rats are wary and need a different, bigger-scale approach.

If you’re seeing large droppings, gnaw marks on hard materials, or burrows outside, you’re likely dealing with rats — and trapping setup and bait change accordingly.

2. Set snap traps where mice run

Snap traps are still the fastest, most reliable and most humane (quick) DIY option. Place them perpendicular to walls — mice run along edges, not across open floors — with the trigger end against the wall, every 6–10 feet along the runway.

Bait with a tiny dab of peanut butter (not a big glob mice can steal), and set far more traps than you think you need on night one; the first night catches the most. Glue boards have their place for monitoring or tight gaps, but many people prefer snap traps for a quick kill.

3. Seal the entry points

A mouse fits through a hole the size of a dime. Walk the exterior and find gaps around pipes, vents, the foundation, garage door corners and under sinks. Stuff them with steel wool, then seal over it with caulk or expanding foam — mice chew through foam alone, but not steel wool.

Sealing entry points is what turns “caught a few mice” into “problem gone” — without it, new mice simply replace the ones you trap.

4. Clean up safely

Don’t sweep or vacuum dry droppings — that can put hantavirus particles into the air. Ventilate the area, spray droppings and nests with a disinfectant or bleach solution, let them soak, then wipe up with gloves and bag the waste.

5. Skip the stuff that doesn’t work

Ultrasonic “pest repeller” plug-ins are heavily sold but have no good evidence they get rid of mice — the FTC has warned manufacturers over unsupported claims, and mice habituate to the sound quickly. Peppermint oil and similar repellents smell nice but won’t clear an established infestation. Save your money for traps and sealing.

6. Prevent them coming back

Store food (including pet food) in airtight metal or glass containers, declutter storage areas that give mice cover, keep the kitchen crumb-free, and trim vegetation back from the foundation so mice have less shelter near the house.

When to call a pro

If you’re still catching mice after a couple of weeks, you hear them inside walls, you see them in daylight (a sign of a large population), or you’re dealing with rats, it’s worth getting a free quote from a licensed local pest pro — they can find entry points you can’t reach and treat at a scale DIY can’t.

Dealing with a bigger pest problem than fruit flies? Get free quotes from licensed local pest pros — no obligation.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get rid of mice?

A small infestation is usually cleared in one to two weeks with enough traps and sealed entry points. If it drags on longer, you likely have an unsealed entry point or a larger population that needs a pro.

Do ultrasonic mouse repellers work?

There’s no reliable evidence they do, and the FTC has warned sellers over unsupported claims. Mice quickly get used to the sound. Trapping plus sealing entry points is what actually works.

What’s the best bait for a mouse trap?

A tiny dab of peanut butter is the classic for good reason — it’s smelly, sticky and hard to steal. Chocolate or hazelnut spread also work. Use small amounts so the mouse has to trigger the trap.

Are mice dangerous?

They can contaminate food and carry diseases, including hantavirus via droppings and urine — which is why safe clean-up (no dry sweeping) matters as much as trapping.